Apparel Processes

Apparel

FURTHER PROCESSING FOR IMPROVED QUALITY

ANDAR Advanced Natural Fibre Processes provide many of the most exciting technical advances in wool, moving the global textile industry closer to realising the full potential of wool as nature’s best fibre. Their broad range allows customers to add value to wool, providing niche fibre products extending the use of wool and differentiating it from other textile fibres.

Superwash
The partnership between ANDAR and The Woolmark Company enabled the development of a new generation of Superwash sliver/top treatments. Supporting these new innovations is a combined total of over 50 years experience of wool processing equipment manufacturing and shrink resist technology knowledge.

 

Shrink resist treatment of wool adds consumer desired properties to this superior natural fibre, the improved processing technology allows processors and retailers to offer fabrics and garments with added value and performance.

 

ANDAR offer two main types of Superwash Shrink Resist Process that can be applied to sliver/top, the traditional Chlorine Shrink Resist Treatment, and newly developed Chlorine-Free Shrink Resist Treatment.

 

Chlorine Shrink Resist

There are four main processes within the top/sliver treatment area, designed to provide specific product performance features demanded by garment manufacturers to meet their customer’s demands. From improving the brightness of yarns, improving the handle and feel of fabrics for ‘next to skin’ wear or allowing the end product to be machine washable and/or tumble dryable ANDAR provide the complete solution.

Chlorine Free Shrink Resist

This latest development in Superwash technology uses a revolutionary process to shrink resist treat wool tops without the use of chlorine. The fibre undergoes a unique oxidisation process resulting in a fibre that has naturally activated antibacterial qualities, with improved colourfastness, handle and softness. In addition the resulting fibres meet the Total Easy Care standard for machine washability.

 

Backwash

This primary process has been the foundation of the ANDAR tops treatments. With the tried and proven benefits of this four bowl sliver process retained, new system improvements have been made to maximise efficiencies, critical in controlling product quality.

There is a choice of two inlet systems dependent on the form of sliver to be processed. These systems are required to present the tops to the Superwash system in an open, even and well-controlled form. This allows a more efficient and even application of treatment to the tops.

 

Inlet Bump Creel shrink resist technology

Designed to accommodate tops from either bump or ball.

 

Inlet Can Creel shrink resist technology

Designed to deliver and present sliver from wound cans.

 

Rotodraft Opening Device (optional)

The ANDAR Rotodraft is a continuous sliver opening device designed to open the slivers prior to processing to eliminate any compacted areas, which are common in tops that have been transported in high-density balls or compressed form. The Rotodraft produces slivers of a consistent density and tension, while preparing the sliver for the most efficient treatment.

 

The main benefits of the Rotodraft are:

  • Increased flexibility in production schedules because tops can be treated immediately without the needs to relax or reprocess the slivers.
  • Normal production rates can be achieved, even when processing Total Easy Care fine wools.
  • Savings and efficiencies through chemical and related costs due to improved evenness of treatment of the opened sliver.
  • The removal of re-treatment costs, associated with ‘surprise’ failures.

There are two forms which the treated sliver can exit the Superwash line in preparation for transportation to the next stage of processing.

 

Outlet Bump CreelBump Outlet Creel

Takes the treated sliver, winding it into a tight bump or ball.

 

Outlet Can Creelshrink resist technology

Feeds the treated sliver in a spiral pattern on top of itself into a standard plastic can.

 

An ANDAR Stretchbreaker is a machine that rectifies the length of fibres within a sliver, by breaking the fibres that exceed the customer determined set length. This technology has been used in the past for many other fibrous materials, such as cotton, ramie, flax, polyester, acrylic and polypropylene.

stretch break technology

The main purpose of processing the slivers through a Stretchbreak machine is to blend the resulting fibres with short staple fibres, creating various textiles for the fashion industry.

 

The slivers enter the Stretchbreak via the Inlet Creel and passes through a series of adjustable drafting rollers set a pre-determined distances apart controlling the length of fibre required. The Stretchbreak is designed to operate at between 150m/min and 250m/min depending on the duty required.

 

During the process the Dust Box removes any dust and fragmented fibres from the machine to avoid build up. The slivers are rectified and leave the Stretchbreak by way of the Outlet, either the Can Coiler or Open Top.

 

Other Machines used in the Stretchbreak Process

Inlet Creel

Designed to deliver top from cans to allow the fibre to enter the Stretchbreak as individual slivers.

 

Dust Box Unit

Extracts the dust and loose fibres that have become free from rectifying the slivers.

 

Stretchbreak outlet

There are two forms in which the rectified sliver can be transported to another process as.

Can Coiler

Feeds the treated sliver in a spiral pattern on top of itself into a standard plastic can. ANDAR Stretchbreak systems incorporate the proven technology of the Rosink coiler systems.

Open Top

Pneumatically transported away from the Stretchbreak process and transported to the next stage of processing.

 

 

Electrical Control System

Incorporating a PLC control system on the Stretchbreak machine, the process is integrated to provide fast change over times between break lengths and maximise speed efficiencies. This automated system can also detect when a sliver breaks or runs out, and stops the process.